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Cloth

The cloth decides more than the colour

Almost everyone chooses cloth by colour, which is precisely the one thing that does not change how a garment falls. These are the three that do.

01 — Weight

Measured in grams, and it does not mean warmth

Heavy cloth is not warmer: it falls differently. Weight is what makes a lapel stay where you put it or give up by mid-afternoon.

200 – 280g/m

Summer

Little drape, and it creases without apology. That is the price of wearing it in July.

280 – 360g/m

All year

The range where almost everything works. If you will only own one piece, it is here.

360 – 500g/m

Winter

It falls on its own, with no help. A coat starts at this weight.

These are the bands tailoring talks in, not a list of what is in stock.

02 — Weave

How the threads cross

Before colour and before pattern, cloth is a way of crossing two threads. These three are the ones the configurator draws — drawn, not photographed, because no specific cloth has been in front of a camera yet.

  • Plain

    One thread over, one under. Nowhere to hide: any fault in the cutting shows in full.

  • Stripe

    A vertical line at fixed intervals. It lengthens the figure, and the seams must match or it shouts.

  • Herringbone

    A twill that reverses every few threads. Texture without colour, and far more forgiving than plain.

See them on a piece

03 — Fibre

What it is made of

Fibre decides how the garment ages, which is a different question from how it looks on the first day.

Wool
Does almost everything well and recovers on its own from a day spent sitting. It is the default answer and usually the right one.
Linen
Creases on purpose. Anyone who chooses it is choosing that, not tolerating it.
Cashmere
Soft and fragile at once. Magnificent in a coat, reckless in a trouser.

04 — The range

What the house holds

There is no range yet. When there is, it appears here.

Cloth is chosen with the cloth in your hand

No screen tells you how a length of wool weighs, or how it falls when you let go of it. So this part is not decided here: it is decided at the atelier, with you touching it. If you already have something in mind, say so when you book and it will be ready.

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Cloth — Romeo Funacci